Elastic top stocking



Jan. 21, 1941. H MCADAMS 2,229,580

ELASTIC TOP STOCKING Original Filed 00 3. 20, 1936 8 Sheets-Sheet l D DD U U U U D INVENTCR ATTORNEY Jan. 21, 1941. H. McADAMS 2,229,580

ELASTIC TOP STOCKING Original Filed Oct. 20, 1936 8 Sheets-Sheet 2 RS RINVENTOR Hap r'1 M AdEJTLS Jan. 21, 1941. -MGADAMS I 2,229,580

' ELASTIC TOP STOCKING Original Filed Oct. 20, 1936 8 Sheets-Sheet 3INVENTOR HEPPH M AdamE.

Jan. 21, 1941. H. M ADAMS ELASTIC TOP STOCKING Original Filed Oct. 20,1936 8 Sheets-Sheet 4 r Hee/ EE WMv Nn INVENTOR HEPPH M Adam-n5 BY v g/H. McADAMs ELASTIC TOP swocxme' v INVENTOR '1 I] a arm M Adam-L5 BY 5 II 8 Sheets-Sheet 5 Original Filed Oct. 20, 1936 Jan. 21,1941.

Jan. 21,- 1941. H. MOADAMS 2,229,580

' ELASTIC TOP swocxme Original Filed Oct. 20, 1936 8 Sheets-Sheet 6HaFPH M Adam-n5 ATTORNEY INVENTOR Jan. 21, 1941.

H. M' ADAMS ELASTIC TOP STOCKING Original Filed Oct. 20, 1936 8Sheets-Shet 7 INVENTOR HBPIH M Ad ams Jan. 21, 1941. H, McADAMS2,229,580

EL A TTTTTTTTTTTTT NG Harr' M Ad ams Patented Jan. 21, 1941 UNITEDSTATES PATENT OFFICE ELASTICTOP STOCKING Harry McAdams, Reading, Pa.,assignor to The Nolde and Horst Company, Reading, Pa., a corporation 4Claims.

The present application is a division out of my co-pending applicationSerial No. 106,650, filed October 20, 1936.

The present invention relates to an improved elastic top stocking, suchas adapted to be worn by men, having an elastic top which is ratherloosely knitted relative to the leg of the stocking and having elasticmeans therein which will grip the leg of the wearer and hold thestocking in place without discomfort and without stopping the bloodcirculation.

Other objects and advantages of this invention will be apparent duringthe course of the following detailed description.

In the accompanying drawings, forming a part of this specification, andwherein similar reference characters designate corresponding partsthroughout the several views,

Figure 1 is a fragmentary front elevation of a machine upon which theimproved stocking may be knitted.

Figure 2 is a developed view of the needle, jack, and cam set-up for themachine.

Figure 3 is a side elevation of the improved stocking showingdiagrammatically the manner in which the elastic top of the stocking isknitted.

Figure 4 is a fragmentary perspective view showing the manner in whichthe elastic yarn is incorporated in the top portion of the stocking withthe inelastic yarn.

Figure 5 is a plan view of the cylinder and latch ring assembly showingthe mainand auxiliary feeds, etc.

Figures 6 and 7 are diagrammatic developed views of the cam lug patternset-up upon the pattern drums of the machine.

Figure 8 is an enlarged outer view of a portio oi the improved fabricwhich may be knitted upon the machine using the set-up shown in Figure2; the view showing the relative stitch arrangement in the top and legof the stocking and at the juncture of the elastic top and leg.

Figure 9 is a View similar to Figure 8, but showing the inside of thefabric.

Figure 10 is a developed view showing another needle, jack and camset-up for the knitting of an elastic topped stocking which isdifferently knitted at the juncture of the elastic top and leg of thestocking.

Figure 11 is an enlarged fragmentary View showing the stitch arrangementof the improved fabric as knitted with the needle set-up shown in Figure10 and wherein at the juncture of the elastic top and leg portions ofthe stocking certain tuck stitches are provided for the purpose ofproducing a neat and effective connecting section between the elastictop and leg portion.

Figure 12 is a fragmentary front elevation of a modified form of fabric.

Figure 13 is an inside view of the fabric shown in Figure 12.

In the drawings, wherein for the purpose of illustration are shownpreferred and modified forms of the invention, the letter A maygenerally designate the-knitting machine which comprises the subjectmatter of my co-pending application Serial No. 106,650, filed October20, 1936, and which includes a supporting frame B having a cylinder Crotatablysupported thereon. The machine is generally of the type setforth in my earlier co-pending application Serial No. 730,666, filedJune 14, 1934, and as set forth in that application is adaptable to beused for the knitting of color within color patterning in the leg orother portion of the stocking. To that end the machine includes a latchring 0 having a main feed arrangement B for the feed of different yarnsto the needles, and an auxiliary feed arrangement D thereon. A set ofneedles E are provided upon the machine having a set of control jacks Fassociated therewith. Wrap patterning means G is provided for thefeeding of different fancy wrap yarns to the needles in a selected colorwithin color'arrangement, as has been more specifically described andset forth in my above identified co-pending application.

The machine may or may not be used with the wrap patterning arrangement,sincethe primary object of this invention is the provision of animproved elastic topped stocking.

The machine furthermore includes a cam actu- T ating pattern drum H anda yarn feed finger controlling pattern drum J.

The stockings K are knitted in continuous stringwork, and each has animproved elastic top. The machine due to the manner of knitting the topis capable of knitting the stockings efficiently and economically instringwork.

The top of the stocking has incorporated elastic and inelastic yarns,and is so knitted that it will efiiciently adhere to and conform to theleg of the wearer for the purpose of holding the stocking againstslipping down upon the leg. To that end the inelastic yarn stitches inthe top of the stocking are relatively loose, inasmuch as thestitchesare interknitted upon a less number of needles of the cylinder of themachine than the number of needles utilized in knitting the leg portionof the stocking. The number of needles used in knitting the top of thestocking may be ferred not to place the elastic yarn in every course ofthe inelastic yarn in the top of the stocking, but only in alternatecourses, or, if desired, in any desired spacing. An additional factor isthe interknitting of the elastic yarn together with the inelastic yarnin each stitch in each of the courses wherein the elastic yarn isknitted in the top of the stocking.

The cam actuation of the jacks and needles.

may best be described in sequence. Starting with the knitting of theloopers round at the end of the stocking toe, the same is knitted at theregular feed with the heel and toe yarn 20, shown in Figure 2 of thedrawings, on every needle of the machine. The loopers round extends forany desired number of courses and at the end, the main body or leg yarn2| is also fed to all of the needles of the knitting machine in additionto the heel and toe yarn 29, in order to prevent a run-back into theloopers round, because on the nextmove of the machine the needles whichare inactive during knitting of the top of the next stocking are buried.

The needle actuating cam 23 is thrown into action by a leveragemechanism 24 shown in Figure 1 of the drawings, which in turn iscontrolled off of the pattern drum H, in accordance with the cam set-upshown in Figure 6 of the drawings, as will be subsequently mentioned.This cam 23 elevates all of the cylinder needles in order to shed thestitches thereof below the 40 latches of the needles, preparatory toburying the cylinder needles which are inactive during knitting of therib top- In the present machine only every third needle is utilized inknitting the top or the stocking.

Cam 25, which is operated ofi a leverage mechanism 26, is thereafterused to lower all of the cylinder needles which have been elevated bythe cam 23, to their'normal position, with the stitches still hung onthe needles but externally on the closed latches of the needles. At thesame time cam 21 which is operated oil of a leverage mechanism 28, shownin Figure 1, is thrown into position for elevating certain jacks 30which are disposed below every third nee le of the machine, and whichjacks have upper long butts and short lower butts. The cam 21 operateson the upper long butts and elevates said jacks 30 for throwing theneedles which are active during knitting of the elastic topupwardly intoposition for tak- 0 ing yarn. In this position I knit for four courseswith the'body yarn 2|, as above described, in order to crowd thestitches at the end of the loopers round preparatory to dropping theneedles which are, inactive during knitting of the elastic top. Thisyarn 2| of course knits on all of the needles of the machinenotwithstanding that the cam 21. has elevated every third needle, andthese four courses comprise the selvage.

In the. next course the auxiliary feed yarn 35 is thrown into-action byits finger shown in Figure 2 ofthe drawings, and at the same time theauxiliary knitting. cam block 36 is also thrown into position foractuating, the needles of the machine at the auxiliary feed. Thisauxiliary block is operated by leverage mechanism 31, shown in needle ofthe cylinder machine.

Figure 1 of the drawings, controlled oif of drum H. The binding yarn(body yarn) 2| is now thrown out of action thru its leverage mechanismcontrolled from drum J, and the heel and toe yarn 20 remains in action.Channel cam fill is then thrown into position to act on the needles tobeb-uried (inactive during knitting of the top of the stocking); thiscam 49 being actuated oil of the leverage mechanism 4| shown in Figure lof the drawings. It should be remembered that the cam 21 was previouslythrown into action to elevate every third needle, so that the cam il isnow in position to act in burying the other two needles of each group ofthree needles. The selvage of the stocking is now knitted forapproximately thirty-six courses on every third This is ordinarilywaste, except for the part which is sewed inside of the top of thestocking (as shown at 46 in Figure 3 of the drawings) to form the welt.Of course the welt may be formed otherwise than in this manner.

In the next move of the pattern drum the elastic yarn 51] is thrown intoposition for feeding onto every third needle of the machine, andtogether with the inelastic heel and toe yarn 2i) knits on said everythird needle in alternate courses. Both feeds of the machine are active;the yarns 20 and 50 feeding at the main feed, and the inelastic yarns 35feeding at the auxiliary feed. The yarns 2i] and 2| are ordinaryinelastic yarns, while the yarn so is elastic commercial Lastex. Cams2?, 23, 25, and 40 are of course retracted as the first course of theelastic top of the stocking is knitted. This top continues through anydesired number of courses, preferably two hundred and forty, and ofcourse it can readily be understood from the set-up above described thatthe elastic yarn is knitted in every stitch in alternate courses of thetop of the stocking, but of course the top of the stocking is onlyknitted upon every third needle of the cylinder. The auxiliary feed yarn35 and the feed yarn 20 at the main feed are heavier than the leg yarn2|. The looseness of stitches is due to knitting on every third needleof the machine. The fact that the yarns are heavier than the leg yarnand that the elastic yarn is only knitted in alternate courses, but onevery stitch in each course in which it is knitted, gives the top of thestocking not only a very efficient lateral and longitudinal elasticity,but gives it a mock rib effect.

The manner of adding the other needles to take the yarns, and the changeof yarns, at the juncture of the top of the stocking and the leg may bevariously accomplished. In the set-up shown, the cam 55 after knittingthe top of the stocking, but while still utilizing the yarns 2|), 35 and50 is thrown into action by the mechanism 56 shown in Figure 1,operating off of the pattern drum H, for the purpose of elevating theother jacks 3|, which have long butts at their lower ends. These jacks3| are below one of the normally inactive needles during top stockingknitting, and their elevation by the cam 55 throws the needlesthereabove into position for also taking the same yarns at the main andauxiliary feeds as every third needle of the machine does duringknitting of the major portion of the top of the stocking. The machinemay then make any desired number of revolutions. Preferably one, two, orthree revolutions are sufficient, and of course both feeds are activeand the elastic yarn 50 is also fed to the needles thus elevated.

It should be remembered that one needle in every three is still buried.This needle is elevated by the cam 60, which is thrown into action offof leverage mechanism 6| shown in Figure 1 of the drawings, operatingoil of pattern drum H, and now all of the needles of the machine are inposition for taking the yarns at the main and auxiliary feeds. One ormore courses may thus be knitted utilizing both feeds of the machine,with the yarns 20, 35 and 50 active. Preferably only one course is thusknitted and then the auxiliary cam block 36 is thrown out of action; theheel and toe yarn 20 is thrown out of action and also the auxiliary feedyarn 35 and the elastic yarn B. The body yarn 2|, which is preferably ofsilk, is thrown into action. This all preferably takes place during onecourse of knitting and now we knit the leg of the stocking on everyneedle of the machine.

At the heel and toe of the stocking a cam is provided to raise the longbutt cylinder needles above the stitch cam arrangement at the main feed,in order that they may idle. This is of course conventional in that theheel and toe are both knitted upon the short butt needles. The leg orbody yarn 2| is of course retracted and the heel and toe yarn 20 used atthese locations.

At completion of knitting the heel and toe the cam 25 is thrown intoaction by the means above described to lower the long butt cylinderneedles preparatory to full circular knitting. At the end of thereciprocatory toe knitting the loopers round is again knitted in themanner above described and the cycle is completed. In this manner thestockings are continuously knitted in stringwork.

In Figure 3 of the drawings the heavy horizontal lines designate thecourses in which the elastic yarn is knitted, and the lighter horizontallines 76 designate those courses which are formed solely by theinelastic auxiliary yarn 35.

In Figure 4 is more clearly designated in full lines the knitting of thecourses out of the elastic yarn 50; the dotted lines represent thestitches formed by the inelastic auxiliary yam 35. The yarn of course isknitted into the same stitches as the elastic yarn 50, but this heel andtoe yarn 28 is not shown in Figure 4. In this figure is also shown at 11the manner of floating the elastic yarn from course to course whereinthe same is knitted.

Referring to Figures 8 and 9 of the drawings therein is designatedsolely respectively the outside and inside of the improved seamlessfabric knitted in the manner above described. The numerals designate thevarious yarns 20, 2|, 35 and 50. The knitting proceeds in the directionindicated by the arrow and it is thus seen that every alternate coursedesignated at 80 has both the inelastic yarn 20 and the elastic yarn 50knitted together in every stitch thereof; the elastic yarn being undersuificient tension to prevent undue spreading of the stitches lengthwiseand crosswise. The alternate courses 8| are knitted (in the top) out ofthe inelastic yarn 35 at the auxiliary feed. The stitches formed in thecourse designated at 82 are formed on two out of every three needles ofthe knitting machine, that is, after the cam 55 has gone into action toelevate the jacks 3| and the needles thereabove as above described. Thiscourse 82 is formed of both the yarns 20 and 50. The next course 83 isproduced on two out of every three needles of the machine, with everythird needle buried, the same as the preceding course, but the elasticyarn does not appear in this course, inasmuch as it is knitted out ofthe auxiliary yarn 35. The next course designated at 84 is knitted thesame as the course 82. Thereafter all of the needles of the machine arethrown into action and the next four or five courses are knitted onevery needle of the machine out of the heavier inelastic yarns 20 or 35,or out of both of said yarns. These yarns are of course heavier than thesilk leg yarn 2|, and as shown in Figures 8 and 9 the silk leg yarn 2|is thereafter knitted on every needle of the machine, and is continuedthroughout the leg of the stocking, with the exception of the heel andtoe, as above outlined.

Figures 12 and .13 show by way of modification an improved fabric whichis knitted with the top drawn a little tighter than the top of thestocking above described, inasmuch as the top of the stocking is knittedon every other needle (instead of every third needle). Thus the fabricshown in Figures 12 and 13 has the courses 90 formed of an inelasticyarn 29 and an elastic yarn 5% at the main feed of the machine, and thealternate courses 9| are formed of merely an elastic yarn35 at theauxiliary feed of the machine. At the juncture of the top of thestocking with the leg portion 93 every needle of the machine is broughtinto play nd takes the yarns as shown in Figures 12 and 13, althoughsome variation at this juncture point may be made if desired. Preferablyin order to draw the stitches tightly and prevent large openings at thejuncture of the top of the stocking and the legthe elastic yarn iscontinued throughout the first course knitting on every needle whengoing into the leg.

As will be noted from Figures 1 and 2 of the drawings various cams, yarnfingers and yarn guide and control members are shown in dotted lines.These may be used upon the present machine when the latter has a set-upfor the knitting of patterned wrap yarns. They need not be specificallydescribed herein, but have the same characteristics as specifically setforth in my application Serial No. 730,666, filed June 14, 1934.

In Figure 10 is shown a developed needle and jack cam set-up for theknitting of fabric having elastic incorporated as above described, butin which set-up the cam arrangement is relatively simpler and capable ofproducing tuck stitches at the juncture of the leg with the top of thestocking, so as to obviate large openings occurring at this section, asshown in Figure 11 of the drawings.

In connection with the set-up shown in Figure 10, when knitting theelastic top of the stocking shown in the lower portion of Figure 11,every third needle is utilized and takes the body yarn.

I90 at the auxiliary feed, and at the main feed the alternate coursesare knitted out of the heel and toe yarn HH and the elastic yarn I02, inthe same manner as above described for the fabrics illustrated inFigures 8 and 9. The knitting of the top proceeds in substantially thesame manner as above described for the needle set-up shown in Figure 2,so far as the top is concerned.

When we reach the course designated at I85 in Figure 11 of the drawings,at the auxiliary yarn feed, the yarn M9 is not only fed to every thirdneedle utilized during knitting of the previously knitted courses in thetop, but the adjacent needle, normally idle during knitting of the top,is elevated. These two needles, that is,

.. the regular everytithird needle .I lllon'which knittingzislefiectedxfor producing the major portion of the top'of the stock and the needleI08 to be elevated for forming the tuck stitches, are elevated as shownin the right hand portion of Figure 10 for taking the yarn I06.

This elevation of the needles I08 is accomplished by means of a cam E09acting. on the special jacks H0. The cam I I I, also at this location,acts on the special jacks I I2 to elevate the needles I01. It is only onthe needles I08 that the tuck stitch is knitted at the auxiliary feed.During the same revolution ofthe cylinder that the needles I08 areelevated to take the auxiliary yarn for knitting the tuck stitches, thecam II3, shown in Figure 10, elevates the needles I! fortaking the heeland toe yarn I0! and the elastic yarn I02, and it is noted that theneedles I08 are not elevated at this reg- .ular 'feed. Thus at theauxiliaryieed, asshown in Figure 11, the regular stitches I20 areproduced, and a tuck stitch I2I is produced which is not'thrown oil atthe next course knitted at the regular feed. However, during thesucceeding revolution of the cylinder the needles I08 are again elevatedat the auxiliarylfeed and the stitches hung thereon are then cast off tostart another row of tuck stitches upon the needles I00. It will thus benoted, from Figure 11, that :at the juncture of the leg portion I30 ofthe stocking with the top of the stocking the stitches formed are quiteclosely packed together to present a neat section without openings.About four courses are knitted at this section; the tuck stitches ofcourse extending through two tuck stitch courses, as shown in Figure 11.The elastic'yarn is withdrawn at the start of knitting upon all of theneedles of the cylinder, butthe yarns H00 and NH are knitted on part ofthe needlesior approximately four courses, shown at I3I, and then theleg yarn I33 is dropped into action upon all of the needles.

The stitch cams at the auxiliary and main feeds need but littledescription, since their function will be apparent to one skilledin theart, from the above description and from the illustration in Figure 10.At the auxiliary feed the stitch cam block I40 has a cam edge MI inposition to lower all of the needles which are at the normal level, thatis, those needles not elevated by the cams I09 and III, and this camI410 also has a cam edge I42 which lowers the needles elevated by thecams I09 and III.

At the regular feed a cam I45 normally lowers all needles at the normallevel, except those elevated by the cam I I3. The rest of the stitch camset-up is conventional.

It will be noted in Figures 2 and 10 that certainbutts on the needlesand jacks are either :short or mediumlength. This is to enable theinsertion of the actuating cams.

The yarns, including the elastic yarn, are fed under some tension toneedles of the machine.

t is of course'understood that the stocking may be knitted otherwisethan herein described, such as upon a machine by first knitting the legportion and then the top portion, and that the machine maybe of thestationary cylinder type wherein the cam set-up rotates.

Referring to Figure 6 of the drawings, the same shows the cam lay-outfor the pattern drum H. The logs on the dot and dash line 200 actuate,through the leverage mechanism above described, the cam 40; the lugs onthe dot and dash lines 20I actuate, through leverage mechanism, the

cam 21; the lugson the dot and dash lines 202 actuatecertain of thejackcams shown in dotzand dash lines in Figure 2 'of:the drawings; but whichare not necessaryso far as the'present invention is concerned, since itprimarily relates to the provision of an elastic garter top stocking.The lugs on-the lines 2&3,- through leverage mechanism, are used toactuate the cam 25. The lugs-on the line 2% aroused to actuate, throughleverage mechanism 207, shown in Figure 1, the yarn guide wires ormembers as-has been described in my;

above identified co-pending application, but'which need not necessarilybe used with the presentinvention. Lugs along the line 208. areusedtoaotuate certain feed fingers forming a part of my above identifiedco-pending application; the lugs along the line 269, through leverage.mechanism,

.arevused to actuate the cam '23; lugs alongthe line ZIO are used toactuate the auxiliaryknitting block 35; the lugs along the line ZII areused to actuatethe cam 60; the lugs along the line 2I2 are used toactuate the'cam 55; the lugs along the line 2I3 are usedto actuate thecam I0; the lugs along the line 2E4 are used to actuate the binder andcutter mechanism, as has been described in my above identifiedco-pendingapplication,and the lugs along the line M are used to actuatethe auxiliary feed finger which feeds the yarn 35.

In Figure 7 is shown the pattern lug lay-out onthe drum J for actuatingthe feed fingers at the regular feed. The lugs along the line 2 I6 areused to actuate the feed finger for the silk leg yarn 2|; the lugs alongthe line 2!! are used to actuate the feed finger for the elastic yarn-50; the'lugs along the line 2I8 are used to actuate the feed fingerforthe heel and toe yarn 2o. The other lugs along the other lines may beused for actuating feed fingers for other yarns, if desired.

'From the foregoing description it is apparent that an improved elastictop 'stockinghas been provided; 'whereinlthe stockings are knitted instringwork. The elastic top of the stocking is distinctly different fromanything heretofore produced in that it has not only lateral butlongitudinal elasticity sufficient to enable it to efiectively andcomfortably grip'the leg of the wearer and retain the stocking in placewithout slipping. The top of the stockng has a mock rib effect which isprimarily produced because of the incorporation of the loose stitches,although the stitchesare not loose enough to leave voids or openings,due to the manner in which the elastic yarn is incorporated. Theincorporation of the elastic yarn by knitting it directly in each stitchin each alternate course wherein it is knitted produces the highlydesirable result of longitudinal and lateral elasticity. The position ofthe yarns is such that they will not become displaced due to washing ofthe stocking. Furthermore no unsightly marks will be left upon the legof the wearer nor will the blood circulation be retarded.

Various changes in the shape, size, and arrangement of parts may be madeto the form of invention herein shown and described, without departingfrom the spirit of the invention or the scope of the claims.

I claim:

1. As an article of manufacture a seamless stocking having a leg portioninterknitted of inelastic yarn and of a predetermined number of walelines, and a top portion formed of plain knitting with an inelastic yarnhaving a number of wale lines appreciably less than the number of walelines in the leg of the'stocking and with the stitches wider and longerthan the stitches of the leg portion, and interknitted elastic yarn inpredetermined courses of the said top portion knitted in every stitch ofeach course wherein they appear and under tension sufficient to normallydraw the Wale lines of the top portion together when not being worn insimulation of a mock rib top.

2. As an article of manufacture a stocking or half-hose having a plainloose knitted top of inelastic yarn and an integral leg portion ofinelastic yarn having three or more times greater number of Wale linesthan the number of wale lines in the top, and an elastic yarnincorporated in the top under tension to give longitudinal and lateralelasticity to the top portion of the stockmg.

3. As an article of manufacture a seamless knitted stocking having a legportion of relatively inelastic yarn, a top portion of inelastic yarnintegrally interknitted with the leg portion having at its juncture withthe leg portion a greater number of wale lines than exist throughout themajor length of the top portion and a less number of Wale lines thanexist in the adjacent leg portion of the stocking, and an elastic yarnincorporated in the top portion to provide a garter top thereof.

4. As an article of manufacture a seamless knitted stocking having a.leg portion of relatively inelastic yarn, a top portion of inelasticyarn integrally interknitted with the leg portion and at its juncturewith the leg portion having a greater number of Wale lines than existthroughout the length of the top portion and a less number of Wale linesthan exist in the adjacent leg portion of the stocking, andan elasticyarn incorporated in the top portion toprovide a garter top thereof,certain of said stitches connecting the top portion with the leg portionbeing tuck stitches.

HARRY McADAMS.

